Thursday, March 17, 2005

Session 5052: Thought Montara was OK, But...

Earlier this week, Kristine and I have made a plan to surf during the week, then I had a cold and she did too, so we had to wait this Thursday to find the time to surf when both of us felt better fit to surf than to just rest around. I had enough energy while I was still a bit congested, but as we all know a big wipeout or two will help cleanse in that department.

I planned for a medium incoming period to surf and so we planned to me up at the Jetty. I have arrived earlier and the place looked surfable all right, but just did not have much in the way of waves, so I decided to head for Montara and that's where two of us owned the entire state park for a good part of the session.

As usual with my previous logs, Montara always looks very nice and especially clean today from the top of the cliff, but as also usual, once we were in the water, there were still very strong rip current, lots of bouncy reflections etc, made it difficult to surf. We basically paddled in and out of the beach for a better spot to surf.

The sand bar that has formed about 150 years off the shore was amazing, you paddle for a while, you cannot touch the bottom then the paddling arms would start to scoop some sand and so I was standing on a knee depth water about 200 yards off the shore, and this is supposed to be the start of the mid tide! And it is breaking about chest high in a dumper.

I was able to catch some waves but Montara is still a very challenging spot, especially on a shallow break like this, I'd definitely don't want to pearl and head straight into the sand. That would be some spinal injury waiting.

Well, this is the first session after a cold so I decided to cut short, and Kristine also decided to go to a gym instead.

The beach was beautiful with some sun out, and also I pointed out a headless Elephant Seal body lying on a beach with a crow already starting to pick on its meat. I also made sure that she understood that people cut the heads off from these caucuses to inspect the animal's age and health from teeth and other parts of the head. When I saw this last fall for the first time, I was freaked out because I thought that a shark had cut its head off, but come to think of it, a headless seal won't make all the way to the shore.

Montara remains to me one of the most challenging spots in the area, I should always approach with a caution.

Tomorrow will be a DP from Linda Mar before I hit the office.

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