For the sake of my Stokemasters surf buddies; I was really hoping a good condition this Sunday, since my friend Laura and many others can only surf only on weekends. The prayer has been answered, as I left home there was no fog and the wind was small. I passed by the Jetty and did a quick surf check. There were no ridable waves, so I called Laura and then headed to the Linda Mar beach.
The day turns out to be a very excellent day with so many waves that can be caught, and it was unusually not crowed for Linda Mar, so both Laura and I had a plenty of room to catch waves. And, as with it is the usual case, there were many people just staying way way outside and not catching any waves for the longest time, while there were just plenty of inside breaks that were just fun. I started out with a long board.
One thing I am finding out on long boards is that the weight shifting timing can be different compared to short boarding. After short boarding, I realized the I put a lot of weight forward rather quickly, but doing that I'd end up wiping out after pearling over. So I try to stay to the back of the board when taking off and standing up. When someone tells you, "Your board has a tail, Surf Monkey!" they are not kidding!
While Laura was taking some nice rights, I'd wait for the lefts shoulders and I pop up and I was able to nail several very long rides. All in all, it was really fun to get back on my long board. At one point I saw she scored an overhead size break and beautifully inserted the board into the side of the wall then getting the speed up with a classic ups and downs. Congratulations!
Then the line up gradually started to pack in. At that point, I thought I'd change to a short boarding, and pulled out my favorite 6'6. I thought I'd stay way inside and catch anything left over when outsiders either don't catch or mess their take offs up. Turns out this was also a lot of fun. Several good lefts were also scored there, but they were more of a "crouching down straight arrow" type rides than up-down rides. I also saw Jim ripping out there too. Then Mary shows up, and I thought for a moment Ren showed up because they have very similar looking boards.
Felt like some good old summer time has came back to the beach with all these friends out, because for the past few week, the local condition was really tough and challenging kind of fun battered with currents and large swells, but a nice sunny relaxing friendly morning is something I also really enjoy.
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