The sun continues to be out this morning but the swells gotten even smaller this morning. I still had a long board on my car, so I decided to take it out. Mondays beaches are usually barren especially this morning was also suffering a super low tide too!
Today I have to report on "Pearling on Puny Wave" phenomenon. The waves were only hip high max this morning, but I have not pearled so much in a session in my recent memory. I hate to admit, but this would be the time I wish I had taken out short board, I would have done OK, but riding on puny and rapidly closing waves on a long board is really challenging! Basically at this size surfing a long board is like putting a square peg into a round hole, it just does not fit any part of the wave. Go straight and I'd bury the front before the speed picks up, go try to turn, and there is no real estate to turn on. I got about 3-4 reasonable rides and rest of the dozen were just duds.
So I waited out hoping for bigger ones to come but I just ran out of time for the office time, but I did not miss it, as when I got out the onshore wind started to really pickup and started to blow out too.
The swells are coming up so let's look forward to that.
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