Sunny, mild and windless morning
But the waves were still a lot of mess
But I would t still go
Because it is my passion and it is now part of my life.
Ken shows up with his new SC Barney 6'1, it is really thin.
After the first part of the session we swapped.
The smallest board I have ever ridden in my life
I paddled out
Ducked though several waves.
The board already felt familiar under my chest.
Then a set came
I paddled hard to catch it
But I could not get into the speed
Oh what a small real stage that I can stand and dance on
Perhaps, I can blame on the condition
Perhaps, I can blame on my capabilities
My be both
But I cannot blame my inability to surf on the board.
And it was still a lot fun and discovery