Wednesday, March 02, 2005

Session 5042: Surfing Under the Shadow of Mavericks Sideways

OK, so the condition was not that great this morning at the Jetty, but thanks to the big contest, it must be that getting wet and surfing themselves were not in their mind. I had the Jetty to myself for good hour, finally two other surfers came. The surf was still bit disorganized this morning, probably due to the low tide, but as the time went past, the condition was showing the sign of improving.

There were two people asked me for the directions to the Mavericks, Ren calling me and asking for the status, but to my pleasant surprise, it was not that crowded as I thought it would be in the surrounding area.

Of course, when I get to work the focus of the topic was whether I have surfed there. My response to them is that "I was eliminated already."

There is one funny incident to report. A while back I wrote about surfing back towards the ocean at the Jetty. This morning, the swell direction was such that there were some side sweeping backwashes. With extremely strong current flowing eastwards, I have tried to walk to the breakwater, and paddle out, hoping somewhat easier paddle out plus by the time I get outside. It did not work out very well, so I started to paddle along the shore, and here came backwashes 90 degrees to the shore. I paddled into it, and it is not stand-able, I did ride it for a while, then it intersected with the normal white water, making a 90 degree intersection. I basically did a 90 degree left cutback and continued on to the shore. Kind of stupid thing, but it is something you'd not experience much.

When I got back to the office there was a missed call on my cell phone. I called back and it was from KPFA radio station. I was wondering what they wanted to ask me about?

No comments: