This morning, I hooked up with a local surf buddy and headed out to a local spot where the current is horrendous. It is horrendous because it is an outgoing kind of current and if you are not watching yourself out and get out of the rip, you'd be way way out in no-time. This is definitely one of my deep fear areas.
Another friend told me during a paddle out conversation of a surfer who paddled out at the
I had a few panicking out episodes like this, though, again, at my level of experience, I am easily panicked, and so that's the reason why I continue to get more confidence in the water.
There was some ripping moments this morning though, so that made up for all the current fear that I had to contend with.
Then I was resting at the beach, and started to talk to another local surfer getting in, and he pointed out to me several dolphins out. I was totally oblivious to it, but I have not seen that many of them at one time at this beach! They were playing around all over the place and circling around an outside lineup.
Surfing sessions bring a lot of different type of emotions and feeling. Like today, some fear and some really fun catching wall to wall rides, and the feel of sharing the water with these magnificent animals are just tremendously rewarding.