Saturday, August 07, 2004

Sessions 4.146 A and B: Fighting the Swells

Session A:

The swell size picked up and also the direction has shifted more westerly than the past several days. I thought that M...... Should be just as good as two days ago, but boy was I wrong. It was a real work out to get out and waves closed out quite a bit so I only had a couple of rides and that was it. After several attempts to get out, I could not so I went to the far end of the beach and try to get out. I got out OK but then there were several large set came in and were just dumping too fast, so I tried to escape but it was too late, and I was thrown over. The board hit my mouse and cut my lip a bit, not a major issue but that's when I decided to get out.

By then Laura and Arthur arrived and also now the breaks were just going constantly so, so we all decided to go back to our old stand-by.

Session B:

There, we also had a lot of white stuff coming in so it was a real though workout to get out, and boy it was crowded at one point with only 4-5 ft between 30-40 surfers. I have not seen the beach that crowded in one time! Interestingly enough you could have spreaded out but most people seemed to have insisted on just being on a relatively small spot. I don't know why that happens actually as even some of the "locals" that I see often were just there, but not really catching much.

Already exhausted from part of session A, and also worked out some larger sets at session B, I decided to take my underwater camera and started to shoot Arthur and Laura surf. I am sending it to Shutterfly when they send me the envelope, which I have just ordered.

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