This afternoon Steve and I hit a spot that is not the usual LM. I first went in with my 6'6. I was catching waves but I had to start from the way way inside so the rides were short and there is no way in the hell I could catch any air or get off the lips, so instead I swapped the fish with my old trusty Doyle and do more relaxed rides. It used to be that other local guys would see a surfer with a blue foam plus a helmet they will complement me for being so good for someone renting a beginner board, and create a 100 yard buffer zone to avoid me, but I think that they have now figured out what I am doing, so I cannot use "Hey, I just started to surf last week, and I don't know what I am doing so I might hit you." excuse any more.
It was really a mushy day but on a foamy, I can just go way outside and then start to paddle (or sometimes a bit more inside). The lineup moved all over the places so fast paddling with a floaty board was very helpful. So I am still really glad that I got this board for a day like this.
I also have been focusing on "look beyond" technique and I have been getting significantly longer rides as ups part of ups/downs are becoming more effective. Again, in a compact 90 minute session, I think I must have caught a dozen set of rides.
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