Thursday, August 19, 2004

Session 4.157: More with S Swells

So I did not want the repeat of yesterday, I went to a beach closest to my house, and that was not a bad idea if I knew to try on a lower tide.

In contrast to yesterday of while water battle, today was nice and clean and every few minutes A frames would form up to my height. But the difficulty of these is that they are still fairly powerful so I need to get in, stand up and turn much faster than those beach breaks that I have been practicing on. Well, the time will come soon. I just take those in strides.

A bit of sun was poking through the fog crowd and casing rays through the sky. It was kind of an erry scene like some medival religious paintings.

So while I did not get that many rides, I really enjoyed being there this morning.


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