Session 4.145: Back in Action! Stoke 8

Today, I worked all of the morning, and go out during a lunch break at the low tide period. It was a good move. I was able to find a spot that was breaking about my shoulder level high, and today with a much more power than yesterday. There were only three other surfers out and we had a plenty of room, besides, I took the DT4 out so it really worked out great.

Today was the first day that I have taken out the Takayama DT4 (9'0) in several weeks. The reason I did not was because the waves were getting increasingly smaller and also I wanted to still ride the foamy board for more time, as it just give me so much pleasure of allowing to take off when no other surfers are taking off (well, almost).

I took some mushy waves that were building more or less towards the outside and also when there were lower periods, I surfed inside a bit. Still the inside breaks were only 20-30 yards from the beach break line, so it was a bit hairly to take off, but now I have much more confidence in immediately turning upon take-offs so I can still enjoy a bit of ride then. Sometimes, these breaks can be fun because they get really steep fast, and throw small tubes.

Today, I was almost at the point that the wave was about close from the wall and I could have been inside of it, but unfortunately, the wave picked me up then dumped me, so that was not a success, but I have never yet been so close to the wall that my shoulder was almost touching the wall. If I had a bit more speed, I could have had it... may be.

If my Arrow 7'6 is a long board that thinks a short board, then the DT4 almost feels the opposite way. It is so light and highly manuevable that I can ride this more like a short board. Also, one primary difference between the 9'0 foam and the DT4 is that due to its weight, taking off is significantly easier. The only issue is that this board does require a bit more power in the wave for it to work. But once I am on the steep face, I can just push the tail hard and it just holds on the face. I am looking forward to extract more potential from this board as I progress.


LC:M