We tried to surf at G this morning, but that was actually a mistake, there actually was really no good wave to ride but bunch of beach breaks that were steep and just bumpy. So moved further south, and the waves were much better. Should just have gone there in the first place!
Again, I took out the Fish 66 and playing in one section that was going just about high chest to overhead level.
Starting yesterday, my bottom turns are getting stronger to the point that I can now point the line up a bit more than before. Then today, I had a strongest bottom turn I have ever had. I had this happen once before, but this time, the move was a result of an intention than an accident.
What happened was this. I took off on a wave, and then I was hoping that the wave won't build up fast, but it did. So I ended up dropping down fast and straight. It was a right wave and if I kept going at this speed I would hit the beach soon, so I had to do something and so I try to execute a sharp right. I was expecting that the board would probably slip out under but that did not happen, instead, the board made a nice fast strong right turn and held on!
It was very fast turn and the the pressure on the knee was so strong, and I was also immediately be able to cut to the left and continued on by now, it was getting soupy so I just went down the straight line after that. I always want to do this, so looks like I really need to strengthen the knees even more to be ready to withstand the pressure that I need to exert. The whole point that I am trying to make is that I did not realize how much pressure can actually be applied to these boards over such a soft medium like water. Of course, when I wipe out or get pulled under I can feel the force of the water, but I did not feel this in the context of riding, and that's where I am actually half amazed and half happy about it.
LC: GWC, M