Wednesday, August 18, 2004

Session 4.156: Upper Limit

The 20 second S swells started to hit us more, and I was a bit worried that we might get a bit too much power for my taste and that's exactly what has happened. Also going out on a lower tide was not a good idea. It just made the thing worse.

When I arrived at the beach there clearly were some big secions going at or close to 10 ft set height and they were also fast and closing out kinds. But there seemed to be some sections that were not that big, so I decided to paddle out on my 6'6.

Looks at the waves from the cliff and directly on it were totally different story, and no matter how many times I do this, I always get tricked into believing that things are actually bigger and stronger than what I thought it would be. So today was no exception, and in addition, each time I try to get out the more sets seems to come. So long as I am standing at the beach, it is between sets, but as soon as I try to paddle out, the sets kick in again! How aggravating!

I probably tried 4 or 5 times to get out, and even with ducking through there were just more and more stuff coming in so it was very exhausing to paddle and continuously ducking. The first 10-15 meters is the hardest. As I go out further, it gets increasingly easier. Well, that's usually how it happens.

But as soon as I made to the outside line, there was this huge at least 2 x wall started to form right in front of me. I barely made it further out and even did not have time to duck through. Forutnately, I turtled the board at the right time so I did not get thrown over.

So today, I really felt that it was over my limit and so I decided to take the next white water in. Even the white water had so much power that I had a difficulty flicking up, I did ride it though, and I rode back home safely!


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