I have been realizing pretty hard about how I lack the speed in surfing. This is going to be one of the biggest topic for me for the next month or two. Looks like I have to push the October goal of roundhouse cutback completion since I have not even done a satisfactory cutback on a short board yet.
Today, I was rather happy to report that I am still taking off on equal or more waves than even some of the long-boarders, and I can now muscle my way into taking off. I did not realize a couple of things. Number one is that I can actually take off by paddling really hard, even when I thought I would not be able to previously. Number two is that for short boarding, in addition to more precise wave selection, the take-off still require a lot of raw paddling muscles. As I started to focus more on short boarding this year, my muscles are becoming stronger than I have ever been in my life, and I am also happy about that too.
So, I can take off but good surfers I have seen can gain much greater speed than I do so even the waves are just hip high, they can climb up the wave, do a quick cutback and maintain the power and the ride for almost unimaginable period of time. And that's because they can add the speed to their ride much much better than I can do it today.
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