Forgot to Longboard or what?
This morning, I took out the 9'0 Takayama. I have not ridden this for a good 3-4 months now. The swells were big enough and I could see the swell line pushing up for miles away in the horizon, but when they arrived, they did not break most of the time, and they were just closing out much closer to the shore. But once in a while there were some surfable looking faces. I had a relatively short session, and there were about 3 sets that looked surfable, but all 3 times, the board slipped ahead of me and did not end up taking off. Based on the text books I have on my hands, this is a symptom of not going to forward weighting fast enough.
I am trying to determine this is because I have been riding short boards too long and putting too much weight on the back? I do not know, but I thought all 3 waves were not that horrendous and makable.
So I am ashamed to say I had a zero ride today!