Today was the last day before the swells will start to fill in. We drove over to San Onofre instead of going back to San Clemente. There are so many choices of spots here and many of them are great spots like San Onofre and the famous Trestle. Today, I tried to surf in the north part of San Onofre since the spots south was a bit packed. But there was some nice shoulder level breaks that nobody was surfing on, so I had the section all to myself for the full 2 hour session. It was really nice to practice without any worries.
Tomorrow, I will go back and check out the waves again.
In terms of the progress, I am working on taking off even harder at an angle initially. This seems to require a lot more of an initial effort to take off successfully.
A bit writer blocked today so I am going to cut this a bit short today.