Monday, January 03, 2005

Surf Mission 5001: First Surf of the Year, Stoke 6

Today's my surf mission was to "Get out no matter what."

This morning was hectic as my wife's car's driver side window stuck open, and so this had to be taken care of the first thing in the morning. There goes the DP plan! Then my car also have had issues here and there so I was start to think about how we can replace this one so I was fiddling around with various web sites and what might be the next surf mobile. Sounds like a start of another materialistic year, but all I really need is a reliable surf transport so that I don't have to be constantly worrying out what would crap out next, and it would be a hell if it does crap out in the middle of Baja should I chose to take a trip there would it not?

So it was already 3:30 and I was almost going to give it up altogether because we'd need to pick up my wife's car after the repair, but then I said heck with it, I would go for an hour and that's just what I did to the Jetty.

I even did not bother with strapping two boards, so instead, I picky my almighty Fish since that would most likely to work on wider conditions. When I arrived there, sure, there was a beach condition warning sign, but already there were dozen surfers out not minding this. I made a decision that it would be OK since it has been a while since last rained. Initially, the water looked smooth and nothing was happening, but soon after I arrived, there were some good sets coming in. The buoy was reading 20 seconds period today, so this must be the result of it, it was breaking further out than usual, and often softly and gently, so many of the waves were really fun ridable waves.

I have not surfed since Wed so it has been a while, and I was almost afraid of having forgotten how to surf, but that worry was immediately gone behind the breaking waves upon my first ride. Then after that I had a section to myself, and had a lot of enjoyable rides. Wish I had more time and should really no have gotten out sooner, which, if I did commit, I could have.

With a nice sun setting behind omnibus clouds far out in the Pacific casting sorts of colors on the ocean, I had a short but satisfying session. Once again, I am thankful for a nice day.

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