Today was the first day of surfing back in home breaks. During last week's vacation in So Cal, I was curious how the NorCal cold water feels. I did use the gloves and the hood and ventured into mostly closed out water this morning at 7:15 a.m. As the first set of white water hits, almost electrifying feel of the shivering cold shots up from my leg to my head through the spine. Then I knew it I am back in Nor Cal.
This ritual does not change much whether it is in the summer or in the winter. The first shot of the water always is an eye opener. You see the word "Eye Opener" used at menus at breakfast restaurants, but a dawn patrol gives a true intention of these words. But, once I am completely inside the water, though, I start to feel much more comfortable, and then it would not make difference whether I am in Nor Cal or So Cal.
Today, the waves gotten a bit powerful and Montara looked like it was a 3 x massive close out mess. So I was a bit worried that it won't be surfable anywhere this morning at all, but I drove to Linda Mar, and fortunately the close outs were smaller if I work with the occasional overhead size close outs. Now I am confident enough to paddle out in this kind of situation. I strapped on the 6'6 and paddled out. There were not much in the way of surfable shoulders in the outside, so as usual, riding the reform soup today.
Part of the confidence that I have now is that I can duck through the soups and decent size close outs. Also taking off into bigger soups have been a big help in practicing quick flick ups, many of which I am still messing up. Overall it was a good workout and practice in getting out and taking off faster. There was basically nobody out, which was an added advantage of this morning.
Looking forward to tomorrow's DP!