Friday, January 14, 2005

Jan 14, Reflection on a Flat Day

I was hoping for a somewhat relaxed DP session this morning, but it was too relaxed to many. I ended up driving all the way to Sloat this morning in search of an overhead wave.

As usual, in order to make my DP session as efficient as possible, I put on my wet suit in house and drive out to the beach. That saves about 5-10 minutes of changing time, besides, like this morning when it is hitting 40 degrees, it just avoid being subjected into the coldness of the season. But, sometimes, that works against me, and when there absolutely is nothing for me to surf, I have to change from dry wet suit into dry cloths. This morning was rather embarrassing from that respect, because another "desperate" surfer walked towards me while I was changing, if there was anything to surf, and I told him what I do, he was laughing at me!

I must have sat there at the parking lot of Sloat for good 20 minutes though looking to see if anything would emerge. I even considered driving up a bit north, but from the looks of it, I did not find any waves. I would normally get out to paddle out, but there absolutely was nobody else to be seen anywhere. I could have owned the entire ocean beach to myself for a while in this world class city of 780,000 inhabitants! Well, that could have been a story to write.

It never stops to amaze me, though, that one day the ocean can kill hundreds of thousands of people in just a matter of a few hours, then there are days that would challenge any able surfers for big wave rides, then there are days like today that can be totally calm causing even an early stage surfer like myself from not stepping in.

1 comment:

Bob Driver said...

I think I understand how you feel. Some mornings you wake up for dawn patrol excited about dropping in on a glassy face and you get there and there is nothing. Flatness. Then about five days later, when you have to wake up early and take care of your adult life your buddies call you to tell you how it is going off and nobody is out. Epic.

Mother Nature, the Ocean, and Waves can be frustratingly beautiful.

Bob D.