Some times, I get to go late in the morning to surf. This morning was an 8:30 start time because tonight, I will be at work later to do an enterprise wide software upgrades. Speaking of this, based on my quick survey over my local surf riding buddies, most good surfers have figured out the way to surf, be it some flex time arrangements, take 4 x 10 work arrangement so they can surf 3-4 straight days during the week, or completely gone independent running their own gig like going into contractor jobs. One thing though, is that by doing so, they will likely to miss out on some namely bigger and better things like becoming a CEO of at least a modestly sized corporation. That certainly could have been a path that I could have taken, but why should I?
Becoming a big time executive would be satisfying. In fact, a good 2/3 of my life, I believed in that and tried to pursue that type of lifestyle. I almost believed that a highly prestigious position in a prestigious company in a prestigious location and driving a car and living in a home that other people would respect would be the key and that was the only way to enjoy life. Then I discovered surfing, and what this helped me was to wake up to a life again and to discover that there are more than one ways to live a satisfying life. And it is nothing really to do with how much better I can surf than other people.
Looking at what I experienced today, it was nice and warm and sunny weather out with blue water throwing all sorts of nice waves. After arriving at the beach, I strip down from almost all material things; I am basically reduced to my body, a board, and a piece of cloths to keep the warms, and in the tropical places, I can just go out with a pair of shorts on. Then surrender myself to the nature and ask that it will play with me. That's as close as it can get to the time when we were born, and when we will die. It is just as close to come to some ancient or even instinctive joy that one can experience, and after enjoying this for a few hours, I do not really need much more, and I really do feel I am satisfied, and that's much more valuable than things that happens outside of me, and I am starting to realize why some people have chosen even deeper into this Surfing Life Style.