Here is something new that I just have started to try. That is to act more like a "surf animal" than"surf human," and it is kind of interesting to explore that aspect of it. It kind of starting to happen to me this past year of an experience that I've felt like I became more and more connected to the water world. That is, we basically grow up and live on the ground standing and walking, and I don't even think about these activities because we are built on this standing animal platform.
As I surfed more and more, I started to become more and more used to being in the water, and working with the waves started to become more of a second nature. I don't have to be thinking a lot about, for example, when to push the board down when ducking under the wave or paddling my way through the chops when it is a bit heavy out. Along the way I am much less fearful of being in the water, and now I am at the point, I look forward to be in the water. It is actually a comfortable place, and paddling is becoming like walking. I just do it, rather than the activity being kind of a hassle with my arm becoming numb and quickly becoming out of breath. I am not saying that I have a complete comfort in the water and I still have a lot of fear about waves.
So, along this way, staying in focus has really started to bear a different attitude. I'd be more like an animal. Though that's kind of really not possible to say this because nobody would really know how it is to be like a dolphin, I would just really discard any thoughts I have in my head and really just work with the water around me. I am feeling like I have peeled one layer below the water world, and I am feeling like I'd make more connection with the world, as I try to connect to it more at physical level than logical level, and come to think of it, it really is a good change in the pace of my life.
I probably did not make much sense, but I will try to articulate this further in my future writings.
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