Tuesday, February 08, 2005

Session 5027: Step Into A-Frames with An Old Friend

One of the things that this Internet culture does to surfing is that you'd sometimes make friends but, to actually find time and place to surf together takes actually a long time, it is even more bizarre experience that we know a lot about each other, just like friends growing up together or neighbors lived for many years.

This morning was such a morning that I finally got to surf with Wardo, and according to my record on hand he joined the Stokemasters Yahoo Groups in 1/2/2004. We've exchanged numerous messages since then, but we never got find a time to share the water. But asides from being physically in the water together, it is like meeting an old friend that know a lot about each other for a year.

And I called my shots right for the location! This morning, the good WNW swells 7-8 ft at 16 seconds were in, and when that happens, I will hit the Jetty. And it was just nice and fairly gentle A-frames popping all over the places! Amazing! Now I recall, it was sort of like this on one of the Superbowl mornings, so early Feb is actually a good time for these winter swells. I also saw white caps beyond the Pillar Point, and we know what that means.

Though Wardo did not see, I had some ripping moments earlier before he arrived. But again, I usually rip when people are not seeing me or a camera not pointing at me. I was really hopeful when I arrived there were but only 3 surfers that including me. I did catch some good fast waves that this spot is famous for.

I must say, on a day like this, this spot is really ego boosting, especially the spots close to the break water is firing up big, as people would stand on the sidewalk and form a good spectator. Of course that means people, including myself, are under a huge pressure to perform and look good to throw an entertaining show, but sometimes that is kind of fun. I did my best to please the crowd with my spectacular wipeouts, if nothing else. It was once said by somewhere or someone famous that surf board is your stage and you are the dancer. So I guess then the waves are the stage props, then? And of course, we got a great surround sound effect.

Paddling together with Wardo was nice, I rarely paddle out together side to side with people and talk at the same time, but looks like that is even becoming possible. I've see a lot of women surfers in pairs paddle out together in Santa Cruz like Cowells or the 38th, then when they reach the pack, they don't sit up but just prop their chins on their arms, face the front of the board to each other and talk some more. I always thought that was fun, but these people move fast and talk fast at the same time, as I could not even catch up with these people paddling! I used to be amazed.

We chat afterwards at lunch some more and having more friends like this is really great, especially someone like Wardo who have been surfing for just as long as I have been around on this planet and know a lot about the sport and culture of it. I was not just talking to him but absorbing the energy and spirit that is emanating from his presence.

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