Friday, February 25, 2005

Session 5039: First in the Lineup/ Bodyboarding

Sorry about the tiresome tale from Linda Mar, but every once in a while, you get to own the entire Linda Mar State Beach, and this morning was one. To get a ticket to the whole ownership of the beach, for at least 10-20 minutes, the tide has to be super low, the wind is at least 10 to 15 knots onshore with a lot of local wind chops, puny small amount of swells, and either it is overcast, foggy or it is about to rain.

I knew it is going to be really poor, so I throw in my Moray Boogie board in the car along with fins, and that's the first mode of surfing that I have attempted this morning. I have not Boogie boarded in close to a year now.

When I started to paddle out, I have actually found out that I can move faster with hand paddling than using the fins! It certainly was not the case when I started surfing, but now I can even paddle on this thing! Getting out on this messy condition was not a problem because I can duck the board just like I'd do with surf boards. And I can certainly take off and insert myself on a trimmed line along the wall and then do the standard ups and downs to increase or maintain the speed.

Another fun was that after catching waves, I can actually push faster by continue to kick on weaker sections, so I can actually catch a lot of waves with this thing and save lots of rides. Now hopefully I don't get addicted to this thing, but that won't happen, as I switched to a 7'5 board after realizing how tiring it was to kick with the fins.

The waves gotten choppier and bumpier for a while, but negotiating these chops are always fun.

So I am thankful that I can still realize and utilize options that are available to me now even in a condition most other surfers won't get out.

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