This weekend, the standard time has returned. This means we can do a dawn patrol, but almost precludes our ability to do after-work surfing, unless, of course, we ditch our work early. But ditching work at 3:30 is not usually a good thing for the morale of other people in the office.
Monday morning is especially a busy time for me since I need to take water samples, that means I need to pack an ice box with sample bottles and forms, plus a sampling wand, that is in addition to the usual change of cloths, a wet suit tub, helmet, leash and a bottle of hot water. Regardless, I usually pack as much things as possible night before in my car before I go to bed, so, in theory, all I have to do is to put on a wet suit and hop in the car and start looking for the morning waves.
I am still "DST lagged", got up at 5:30, and did the usual buoy check on the web and did other things, then it was 6:30, and yes the standard time is now in effect, it is now light outside. This is great! I was hoping that the Jetty is happening a bit so I would surf there then go take the water samples at Montara and Gray Whale Cove beaches and their creeks. But the Jetty was not happening, so continued on to Café Luca for a coffee, pastry and some sandwich for the lunch time.
Montara was definitely happening with up to double overhead close-outs. I was thinking about the condition as I was taking the water sample; "If someone is coming with me here would I have gone out?" And, the answer today would have been a reluctant "yeah, OK." I probably would not have caught any waves, but at least today I have enough confidence in the water handling skills that if I had to be there, do I feel like I am going to live, and today that answer is definitely yes. It was just about two and half years ago when my friend took me out there, and I was very, very scared. Of course, I won't go out, there really isn't fun.
The next stop was at the Gray Whale Cove. When this spot gets big, the outside starts to have some good shape. Of course, I am talking about double overhead stuff, but if someone makes it, that person will make a beautiful long ride along the wall. But I don't know what will happen in the end. Probably you will have to be eaten by the closing out white water because I cannot see how you would even kick out, or perhaps, you would do the
So I decided to "settle" for my usual spot. This morning there were mainly about no more than dozen people out, and actually it looked surfable. Monday usually tend to be quiet, especially like day after Halloween when people would have been partied out the night before.
There were some period of time that sets were really big, really goes up fast and then when I wait for a while there are some periods when the shapes are starting to hold. So I just waited out when bigger sets were just coming one after another. Still, quite a bit of duck diving is needed to get out, and with a 7'5 board, ducking through this board is still a lot of work, especially pushing down the tail is not easy. I got sucked out from the back of the wave a few times, which was kind of fun!
I did catch several rides but not a nice rail-on-the-wall stuff today. Stoke level is about 5 to 6 today.