Wednesday, November 17, 2004

Session 225: T minus 25 sessions. Fun.

This morning, I promised two things. I will show up at the Linda Mar beach, and also will surf my 7'0 Nev, that I can demonstrate the board to Greg, who might be interested in getting it. So I put the wax back on it last night and strapped it on top of my JC Equalizer.

I was up by 5:15 this morning, so I just got out of the bed and then played with the computer to check the forecast etc.

Compared to the session I had at OB yesterday, the waves were gentle and fun level at Linda Mar. This beach really throws some fun waves for relaxed fun surfing for all levels of surfers, and we were getting probably up to chest high rolling breaks with some good 3-4 minutes between sets. I paddled out with Greg, with the 7'0 so that at some point we can swap the board and he can give it a shot.

Well, as it turns out, I had a blast of time on my Nev. Actually this is the first time I was able to set some really solid lines with it. But asides from it needed a bit more effort in taking off, the board feels very similar to how the Equalizer feels, especially when I set the board to turn, and also taking off in an angle was super easy with the board so light and shorter.

I think that this is a good indication that I can now ride shorter boards with more confidence and control, and I was thinking about this;

As I progressed in my surfing skills, the perceived length of all the board had gotten longer. First time, I ever been on this Nev 7'0 board was actually my first day of surfing, which as many of you know I was talked into getting this board. I could not even stay on the board prone, and when I was sitting on it, I immediately fell off of it. Later on I got an 8'6 and actually even on that board I fell off when try to sit on it (and it was 22.5 inch wide board!). Now I can sit on a 6'6 just perfectly still, and the 7'5 looks almost like a long board. In fact, I take 7'5 when I think I need a long board.

This morning, I took off on a remarkably many number of waves all on 7'0 and also on Greg's fun board too. But the fact that after switching back, I felt at home.

So I decided to hang on to this board.

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