This morning, I promised two things. I will show up at the Linda Mar beach, and also will surf my 7'0
I was up by 5:15 this morning, so I just got out of the bed and then played with the computer to check the forecast etc.
Compared to the session I had at
Well, as it turns out, I had a blast of time on my
I think that this is a good indication that I can now ride shorter boards with more confidence and control, and I was thinking about this;
As I progressed in my surfing skills, the perceived length of all the board had gotten longer. First time, I ever been on this Nev 7'0 board was actually my first day of surfing, which as many of you know I was talked into getting this board. I could not even stay on the board prone, and when I was sitting on it, I immediately fell off of it. Later on I got an 8'6 and actually even on that board I fell off when try to sit on it (and it was 22.5 inch wide board!). Now I can sit on a 6'6 just perfectly still, and the 7'5 looks almost like a long board. In fact, I take 7'5 when I think I need a long board.
This morning, I took off on a remarkably many number of waves all on 7'0 and also on Greg's fun board too. But the fact that after switching back, I felt at home.
No comments:
Post a Comment