Wednesday, November 24, 2004

Session 4.232: Still counting down for 250.

It was another great session this morning. I would put this at a Stoke Scale of 8! As I promised I did take out my Dole Foam, which my surfrider buddy Ed calls "The Equalizer" (but I do also have the real JC Equalizer too). When Greg saw that I did take the foamy out, he seemed to have surprised. Anyhow, it was not a bad board choice, and I had quite a few nice long rides with it. Since the waves were rather in good size and breaking farther out, I could just wait for the wave to break up a bit, and then I will catch the softer wave inside. The take off is really easy and then the waves do steep up as they get squeezed out towards the shore. I just watch how soon and which direction they form.

I also hooked up with Josh on the water. He is doing well with his SofTOP board and venturing to the outside. He looked like having a blast of time with a big smile on his face, and yes, that is the reason why we go surf to all corners of the world!

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