Friday, November 05, 2004

Session: 4.217 - Good Morning! Stoke 8

Got up this morning, and thought that the outside was overcast, but then, I saw spots of cloud in the sky starting to burn orange as the sun came up. Another stoky fall day on the coast!

As I drove by Montara, I saw finally the angry surf was on the way to leave us, and this morning looked much more comfortingly better.

I decided to play safe and went to Linda Mar, and paddled out. Still, a bit of anger is left in the water, by sending occasional close-out waves. But in between, we had some nicer sets, so it was a welcome change.

In the past few sessions, I am back at working on faster take off sequence. This has been one of the most challenging aspects of surfing for me in quite a while, but one progress I am making is to feel mroe comfortable in these kinds of situations. So rather than try hard to stand up, if the board takes off succesfully, I am regarding that as a success.

It is amazing, though, yesterday at Montara, I have seen some people drop down into situations that I would not imagine would be possible. So as usual, there is a lot more to learn.

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