20 More Sessions before 250 Sessions for 2004!
This morning was another one of the days where getting out was relatively easy, but once in a while some huge sets come in that are easily double overhead. I have seen this kind of situation happens when the period is longer than 15 seconds and the swell size is like 6 or more feet. Whatever the cause of this, there are some smaller sets that I can try to ride.
Again, though there are some people who can just ride those without any problems. My main problem is that I actually don't want to risk if I fail to take off. About the only progresses that I made to this effect is that now I can stick the board under these big walls through and get through to the other side without much problems. That's one more option I have been able to utilize more recently.
So I just try to stay inside and with this much power it is always possible to ride some reforming waves.