Sunday, November 21, 2004

Session 4.229: Same Spot But 10 Times Better!

I was actually not planning on surfing this morning, but wanted to sleep in and relax a bit. But guess what, I did go, because I was woken up by a cell call. I was hoping that there are no computer disasters at work. I speed dialed the voice mail and the voice comes out "Manaboooo! ~~~ This is Jack. We are going to surf at 8:00, the waves are good…" So again, I take out the dried wet suit, turning the right side out, and putting it on. Now I am standing at the same spot as yesterday.

Glad I went there this morning, because the wind was on a rare "offshore" condition and the swells were not as big as yesterday, and I had some of the best riding experience since Tuesday morning. There were some good outside waves that better people in this local group of surfers are catching. I am still a bit timid about catching the outside ones, but I did try a few times, and when it works, it is really fun and amazing to feel that I am still on the board. I am really happy also as this kind of thing is starting to happen more often and more consistently, so that is a good sign that some of the waves that were previously impossible to make by me are starting to become possible. It is always interesting in any sort of skill requiring activities such as playing music or surfing that there is a long period when I try and nothing is seems to be happening to get to the goal. Then I some thing happens that allows me to do a bit of what I was intending to do. First time when it occurs, it almost feels like it just happened accidentally. May be it is so, but then my mind and body remembers it, so the next time it happens, then I would remember the exact same feeling that I had at the first time. Then next time on, I would try to get the same feeling that I had. Sometimes that same feeling does not happen for a quite a while, and sometimes, it start to happen consistently, and at that time, I would understand finally what was written in the surfing text books that I have, and also at the same time, that motion becomes a part of me.

Progress Report

As I try to advance my skills, I am starting to realize the use of the knees and hips. Lately some of the rides are becoming smoother, faster, and more powerful all at the same time. I think that this is largely attributed to utilizing the knees. Especially today, I really felt like I am now sticking on the water. Earlier when I was less skilled, I was able to ride but the rides were much bumpier because I stood just straight and not using the knees, but today, my knees are always bent a lot or some depending on where, and also I am sensing the condition of the surface both visually and also via feedback from both feet. I can either absorb bumpiness or if so choose, I would exert additional power by transferring the weight to the board. This seems to allow me to connect different sections of rides from drop down to bottom turns to cut backs more smoothly. Now I think I am getting ready to apply more power and speed to motion when necessary. These actions might help me to achieve the "Roundhouse Cutback" that I am trying for.

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