Friday, November 19, 2004

Session 4.227: Jetty

With a notions of Linda Mar possibly still contaminated, and also the swells getting bigger, I decided to try the old stand-by.

It appears that many other locals also decided to escape here since I saw my friend Jack when I was getting out and also several other somewhat familiar faces.

I actually wanted to try to have more fun with the 7'0 board that I spoke about in my previous post, but the I cannot underestimate how quickly the Jetty waves closes, so I was just pearling after pearling. One thing though is that I am now going for the waves whenever I can, instead of waiting for the best one to roll in, and the reward is that every so often, I get kind of take offs that I thought would have been possible, after being jacked up so quickly. It appears that the trick is to really push down the tail end of the board, then quickly push forward to set up for the first turn. Normally though that's where I screw up. The board just does not take off, then onto the tumble mode. These days, the "thrown over the falls" tumbles are sometimes fun because I now know what happens. It is almost amazing that if you do it right, like I can tuck my knees and then I can go for several tumbles. I was able to tumble about 5 times in a row in one of the wipe outs. You can really feel that inside the wave, the water is moving in a circular motion.

No comments: