Monday, January 14, 2008

Session 8006: Why I Continue To Surf

Day 6
Why I Continue to Surf?

From an epic day to a paddle out hell... it just goes to say, we really have very marginal surf spots near my home. Yesterday was just about the perfect condition for me in Santa Cruz, but today in Half Moon Bay, it is just a jumble of disorganized mess, and when paddling out there is no forward momentum towards the direction of Hawaii; sometimes the ocean closes the gate and push us right back to the shore.

Why would I keep going like a fool then?

Well, I really have made a sort of commitment to myself, to you and to the nature a while back:
  • I committed that this is my (only) daily exercise. So catching a wave is more or less a bonus for me. Even if I get one satisfactory ride out of a session, that's more than a nice reward. So if the condition is safe enough for me, I will go and paddle hard for 30-45 minutes if nothing else. Yes, that was me in the Jetty when it looked all flat and that was also me when Montara looked like going through a rinse cycle.

  • It is also my commitment to you that I go surf as much as possible so I have something to write about this surfing adventure of mine, no matter what it is shaping up to. I know many of you have been a loyal reader of this blog and the web site.

  • Outside of the the annual state park fees, I am considering that my gym is the Pacific ocean and it is basically free of membership fees. But I do commit part of my time/income as the "environmental tax" by serving the Surfrider Foundation as a volunteer, and give back what I make to the "nature." and help repair or prevent the however damages I make to the nature while I am on this planet, and I always pick up any pieces of trash when I get out.
As I started to build the web site and surfing community I have found out that I was not alone. And that keeps me going even more!

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