Tuesday, January 01, 2008

Session 8001

Day 1

The first surf of 2008 started out on a good note, though a bit too strong offshore wind . Not very crowded at all and the air was on a balmy side (high 50's) for this time of the year. With the prevailing offshore winds, we had to paddle like a hell to get in the wave as the wave did not break at the spots they usually do with onshore days.

I am really having a good wave when I can stick my hand in the wall of the wave and keep going.

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