Wednesday, April 25, 2007

Session 7046: Retreat Before Gettin Ugly

Sorry these phone cameras can't do a justice to today's condition, but it's better than nothing, right?

This was what I was afraid of yesterday! This morning, I scored no wave. With the WNW pumping at 10 ft 17 seconds, my hope of catching any waves locally went crumbled away with the powerful closing sets.

I did get in, I did try to catch waves, I almost took off on a couple of waves, but I had to pull out as I know they would be crushing. Finally the third time, it ate me, and that was it. Before it gets any uglier, I should retreat.

When the period hits more than 14 seconds, things can really get difficult. When a wave crushes, there is so much more water that pushes from behind that it will be a longer drag and longer stay under the water. Not to mention, this morning, my hood came off and ripped one of my ear plugs out of my ear. Luckily that was the extent of today's damage. I always stock the next pair of Doc's plugs in my surf gear bag, but now I have to go get the spare, a $11.00 setback.

Just about everyone was retreating this morning quickly. This one guy I saw getting in did not stay there for any more than 10 minutes. I was tearing down the gear, changing to the street clothes, he went in, and by the time I was done and ready to leave, his car was already gone!

Sure enough, the swell and wind continued to pump up, I checked the waves this PM on the way home, and things has gotten really big now.

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