Friday, April 20, 2007

Session 7042: Relaxed Afternoon

Sorry no picture today.

Instead of a DP, I went into the office early then I surfed in the afternoon on the way to home. It was much more relaxed to surf that way. On a DP, I have to make everything efficient. I load everything in the car the night before, pack the change of cloths too; it almost look like I am going on a week long surf trip, and in fact there is not much difference between the two. Perhaps, one of these days, I may not come back for a week!

Once in the water, I am also racing with time, making sure how many minutes are left for the session, including the time to tear down the session and get to the office.

So it is not very relaxing in the morning, but it is intense very focused surfing, no single good wave should not be missed. I compete on surf contests and it is exactly like having a 60 minute heat. It is good though, it is a good training for surf contests and I constantly paddle which is good for my exercise.

I have not been surfing in the afternoon, but it was really contrary to the morning surf.

There is no worry about beating the commute traffic, I know there won't be a con-call or a meeting. I just paddle out, enjoy, and if other surfers "steal" my wave or paddle up and tries to "share" my peak, I am totally cool about it. I don't have to peel my left hand glove to check the watch...

Just calm, enjoy being out in the sun and surrounded and moved by all the liquid around me. Don't even care if the condition is not so optimum. I take time and wait for the best wave, and there always are few.

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