This morning, the Jetty was on a messy side, but once in a while, there were surfable looking waves. As you know my morning surfing session time is very limited so I just make a go/no-go decision quickly, and I usually lean towards on a GO side, unless it looks down-right dangerous or impossible for me to get in.
One thing about today. I smelled like a fish for a good part of the day. The water was murky and I am sure it stirred up some foul smelling stuff among the mess.
There were at least 4-5 of us in the water. Not crowded, and people were taking occasional rides, but mostly we were all struggling to catch waves as the waves did not shape up but mostly closed out on us.
I tried to catch too but most of the time, by the time I got up, my board was already submerged in the white water not giving me a chance to go forward, let alone turning in any directions, even though I thought I negotiated the some quick flick up.
However, once in a great while, the wave takes a shape and the timing and all that works, and it was actually coming down rather fast for what I am used to. Not so confident yet in some of these situations, I'd jump off a board or would wipe out, but this time, I tried to stay on as long as possible. The force from the board was much stronger and that required me to make more forceful move to make a turn, but all that worked out and the board turned, which picked up more speed and so it got even more scary but I still persisted. After the second turn, I was managing the speed and the ride, and when I finished the ride, it really did feel good.
I paddled back, but the waves were just not getting much better, and so I turned around, caught the white water, and belly boarded back to the shore.
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