So this morning is supposed to be a crappy day. I even wrote in my surf forecast that it will be crappy.
But we did go out anyway, and I had a blast! Small crappy waves have challenges of their own. I need to be in a constant movement, predict where the next surfable bump (if you will) would pop up and in which direction.
There were just two of us out.
Because the stupid surf media have told you that it will be a bad day.
If you ask me, and if you ask many seasoned surfers, that's not surfing is all about. Quite a lot of you continuously ask me. "I don't want to waste my time, so tell me exactly where and when I can have fun!" "I don't understand your charts and numbers."
Surfing is not about instantly satisfying your appetite for your very own immediate happiness.
It is about getting together with the nature. Understanding what is is, and what it is capable of, and more importantly what it would be if we continue to just ignore it and kept ourselves thinking only about "me"and how great your surf board is.
It will take a while.
It will take a patience.
You will also need to explain it to other people who don't understand what this is all about.