Tuesday, June 19, 2007
Session 7069 Back in NorCAL
A lot of wind means there is still a lot of upwelling bringing chilly water. People were surfing with swim trunks or just a jacket. What a difference a 5 hour drive south can make!
I put on a squid head and a pair of gloves, but the first duck dive is something that I still hesitate to do.
This morning, with the offshore condition, there were some small but fun waves to continue to work on the wave selection and more consistent take-off technique. Surfing definitely takes a long long time to become good at, it is a collection of a lot of small improvements in various areas.
Oh, one thing I have starting to realize. I did not look left and right of me well into paddle in. For some reason, I just happened to do that in the past few sessions, and the results were really big. I can figure out the line to take much more confidently. Why did I not think of that sooner! Previously I looked at the wave before paddling in and guessed which way it broke, and while paddling I looked straight ahead.
After having had this experience, I started to train myself to be more conscious of peripheral vision. So even when I am driving my car, I try to become aware of more objects in the side of my eyes while I am basically looking straight ahead.