Tuesday, June 26, 2007

Session 7071: Morning Surf, Water Still Frigging Cold

In addition to a lot of wind that prevented us from surfing for the past several days, the water this morning was in low 50's and it was cold. Like I wrote just a few posts ago, the first duck dive is the one I just really hesitate... Even with a hood on, the cold water just has to come in from the neck through the back, no matter how tight I try to make my collar adjustments. Once that passes it is OK the rest of the session. I've heard people surf in the winter in great lakes and northern east coast spots, I am not going there! I cannot imagine what it would be like even if you wear the 5 mm stuff all around. And it is suppoed to be June in California.

Once I get throgh this initial ritual through, the surf was definitely doable though, breaking on the outisde at least at high part of my chest. There were several short boarders out there and at least a few people were actually ripping at least a bit. Like I always do at this spot, I wait for the bigger set to come and ride the reforms, or a bit smaller waves that breaks inside that's much less aggravation than really going for the biggest because bigger it gets, faster they closes out, and more punishment if I screw up.

The water looked really clean and deep blue and it was sunny to start with so that added to more excitement of being out there. Tomorrow, the wind is going to reduce further so I am definitely going to check the Pacific ocean out.

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