Monday could have been surf day, but I had a dental app at 8:00. I should NEVER make a doctor appointment first thing in the morning as it would cramp my surf life style!
But this is Tuesday 9th, I did a DP in Pacifica.
Surfing is fun but sure it is difficult. One of the things that make it difficult is catching a wave. I have been at it for many years now and I am not just a weekend warrior, but I do surf 3-4 time, and often all 7 days out of a week, and yet, I just don't feel like I have perfected the art of catching waves.
Just look at this mornings', and for that matter, any other sessions.
I carefully select where I paddle out. I even see that occasionally, among close-outs, there are some peeling lefts in the mix. I know it would be the "best bet" out of the beach where I happens to be.
So what happens, when I paddle out. One wave after another, I see a wave coming, I know "this is it!", and then I take off, I see that it is breaking like a good wave ought to, I continue to paddle in to the wave, pushing the front of my 5'10 board so it would go in, the board starts to catch the wave, and I am paddling and kicking like hell. If I kick any harder, I know I would get a leg clamp. Luckily the board continues to go into the wave. I feel that it is going to left. I paddle harder on my right arm, and push the left edge of the board into the wave.
Then I get up. As soon as I do that, "Ka Boom!" the wave changes into this white mess of a close out. I am still up and riding inside this mess all right, but the next moment, I am jostled up and down, then the more white water would just eat me up.
All right, that was a bad wave selection.
So I paddle out again, duck diving though "I could have gotten that wave, let's get further out..." type waves. Then for good next 5 minutes, there is nothing, but I see all the waves break further inside.
Don't give me that crap! I paddle in.
As soon as I do that, it's time for a bigger set.
OK, you are not going to fool me about this. I am going to wait inside and let you reform.
Of course, that never happens.
I give up, paddle back in against this prevailing rip current where I really don't want to bother finding the edge of it.
Now, I am back in a member of a normal society driving to work, as I pass by the north part of the beach where I did not pick to go, there are beautiful peeling waves.
And that's how it usually happens.