As for the surfing, I picked a local uncrowded beach. The waves looked good, with occasional overhead sets passing by and without much wind, it was on easier range for getting out, for this place. Normally we all need to fight lots of inside white breaks to get out.
I did not want to be out too long but I got one good wave, the kind you can see the wall forming in the right corners of my eyes. But that was it.
I was grad that I came back without an incident though because if there was an incident, I could not surf tomorrow and will be in somewhat of a problem with the dentist, and of course, with other people too!
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