Friday, January 12, 2007

Session 7008, Punishing Session

With the swell and wind getting little less than yesterday, I opted to go to a "bit more expert" spot this morning. When this spot fires, it can be really big, but fun, especially when I was getting a bit more confident, I was eager to try.

Well that confidence crumbled and in less than 45 minutes I had to curl my tail between the legs and get out.

Punishment number 1: It looked small and easy enough from the shore, but once I got in the water, I was not making great progress to the outside. Every time I looked back, the person standing at the beach was basically the same size as before, even though I thought I paddled good couple of minutes.

Punishment number 2: The current. This spot always has some strong side currents, it usually goes down south. I could not find a channel either. Knowing that there is some current I started at the camp site, then I was paddling out towards a person at the peak. When I thought I was nearing the edge of the inside white wash section, I did not see the person. I thought he got out. Then I looked back and I was already at the south edge of the park! I decided to catch the white water, made the shore, and walked back for the attempt #2, which resulted in the same story. So just in two paddle out attempts, I decided to end the session.

Punishment number 3: The cold gust. Now, it was completely sunny alright, but by the time I got back to the car the wind started to howl, and I am not talking about some nice summer breeze, but is is a 48 degrees F. The wind evaporated a lot of water on the wetsuit and I was already cold. When I took the wetsuit off, the wet rush guard started to become really cold. It was the coldest change of cloths I have ever experienced in any recent memory.

So did I have fun? Of course, I did. I did get out, I did get wet, I did paddle out and came back,and the nature taught me, I still need to be better and stronger surfer. Never a dull moment in surfing.

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