Sunday, January 28, 2007

Session 7017

I slept in and slept over this morning until 9:00 AM. I actually had a vivid dream about a surf trip and I guess I was enjoying this. I was in a place like Waikiki where there were beach front hotels and you can either walk on the street along the beach or on the beach. I had to make a phone call, and I saw an interesting looking, a kind of a tacky, payphone pedestal decorated with shells. Well, I go up to it, I find out that the telephone set was ripped out of it.

I have actually been noticing this all over the places in real life. I guess payphones are starting to become museum pieces. I don't know the significance of that dream, but that's basically where the dream ended.

This morning, I had a very short time, so I went to the Jetty. The tide was super low. During this period, the water looked very confused, creating lot of ripples all over the places, doubling and even tripling up, and totally closing out. I did not want to bother with the breakwater area because it was already crowded with long boarders too, and they were shooting up their boards up in the sky every time close out sets came. I don't want to be there when that happens.

I was there for about an hour and scored two waves that were actual rides but the rest of the times, I had to quit paddling into the waves only to protect myself mixed up in the impact zone which was only about knee high. It is really tricky to know what's really ridable and what isn't because even under these circumstances ridable waves do happen especially if you start from the edge of the shoulder location of which changes all the time. I just paddle and hope that it happens where I think it would be. When it works, it requires a bit of fast take-off tactics.

No comments: