Session 7009: Smaller Than Expected, Fun!

This morning, we debated whether to go to Santa Cruz or not. Just about when we were ready to get going, Ren called me and checked the cams and she said to go to OB. Then I talked her into still going to Santa Cruz, and she agreed to that if we all go together from HMB. Then 30 min later, she called and said Linda Mar looks good, so that's (as usual) where we ended up.

Well, it was actually a good idea, as it turned out. Due to and thanks to the prevailing cold weather, though it was really clear and sunny, the parking lot was about 1/2 or less full even though it was already way past 9 am on Saturday! But there was no wind and so it was a smooth paddle out and waves were on mush side so it was perfect for a long board session, for which, I brought a 9'0 Walden Magic.

As I wrote in a few sessions back, as soon as I paddled out, I got one wave, and then another and so for a while I was catching quite a few waves. I have not been on a long board for some time, but every time I take it out, it is just so much fun. I really wish that I had the speed of getting out and the easy of taking off with a long board, and at the same time, I had the agility of a shot board once I am up on the board. Some people might think that short board with duck diving would get you out anywhere, but in my case, they are just about an even trade... Because I can paddle so much faster with a long board, I can actually make it to the outside more often than on a short board.

Speaking of that, also, once you know how to ride a short board, you can actually be a bit more radical on a long board, by which I mean, I would try to make as fast and tight of turns on a long board as a short board. And remarkably it is actually possible. The way it can be executed is that for faster turns I need to sit toward the back of the board and set up the direction. But then once the turn is set up, you'd want to walk forward and set the board for the rest of the turn, at leas that seems to be the theory. This actually require much more dramatic motion on the board than on a short board where a mere movement of knees and hips can cause these effects.

But these are the things that make it really challenging and fun.

Hope there will be many more days like this.