This morning, the tide felt like it was a bit too high and so the waves were not breaking easily. This made going out easier, but as for catching the waves, it was more for a long-board. Of course, there were many people out.
On these days, I just try to relax, keep smiling and check out other people surf. And once in a while when the wave do come and when everyone screw up on the outside, I would take off on a late-start and catch the inside; basically the same stuff I do when it is closing out on the outside.
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As I do a lot of sessions, significant discoveries become a far and a few in between. It actually makes daily log writing a bit of challenge. I actually sometimes remember to write about some thing then by the time I get out of the water, I totally forget about it. From that respect, it is almost like having had a dream and when I get out that is kind of waking up in the morning, totally forgetting about the dreams that I had.
I have once read somewhere that most people are in the state of being asleep all day and night, and that's why most people won't remember what happened at work, driving to and from work, or what they ate at lunch. They just become so automatic and autonomic that such routines would become part of just living. I am hoping that surfing won't become something like that. I won't likely but definitely a lot of things are starting to be ingrained into my body, so I don't have to even think hard about, say when to duck dive or things like that.
In 2005, I think that I am going to start to get away from writing about technical discoveries and hoping to dive more into my deeper part of psyche, and possibly looking back my very early days and comparing them to today. Good thing is that I have written when I had to and they are faithfully stored digitally on web servers and blogs.
This morning's session was joined by Greg, Jeremy and Laura. Thank you for sharing the stoke with us today! Thank you for joining, it is always nice to have friends.
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