Friday, December 10, 2004

Session 4.236: Maintaining the Body and Soul of Surfing

With this being Friday and also having to get back out to the city for the company holiday party, I have decided to surf in the afternoon before I get back home to get my wife for the evening party.

I looked at several spots on the way back from the office, and decided on the Jetty. The tide was super low and on top of that the 15 ft plus swells were out there, and the Jetty looked most protected from all of this. In terms of the condition, it was really nothing to write home about, but I had to get out making the goal of 250 surf sessions this year; today being the 236th session of the year. Admittedly, I am now realizing that I am starting to be a bit picky on conditions. I remember when I started out surfing; I went out no matter what kind of condition was out there, unless it was downright unsafe. Actually, in retrospect, I even went out when the condition was not exactly safe. It is a retrospect, because at the time I probably did not know whether it was dangerous.

But I did go out to complete the goal, and this is where setting a goal would be helpful. The waves were still closing out when they happened and I had a few rides, but instead I opted to just paddle. I should just remember this as I really like to paddle at a relaxed pace and enjoy the view and the atmosphere of being in the water ? the whole experience of being in the water that really has no other comparable experience.

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