Tuesday, December 07, 2004

Session 4.235: Am I really back from Japan?

Monday, I was asked not to go out since I was still fighting the jet lag, and when it does it will hit suddenly and having a bed near by is a very handy thing. Paddling in to get a nap is not a good option. So Monday, I tried to stay up as much as I could, and I was successful. I did not go to sleep until well after 10:00 PM. But as I went to bed, there was big wind and rain storm outside. So I was not planning to go out. and do a DP. But by 8 am this morning, the weather has improved to the point that there was the sun poking out and the wind has nearly stopped!

And then, a cell phone rang. It was Jack, a local Half Moon Bay surfer buddy and he is an excellent one. He said that the only place that was surfable was Linda Mar, and both the Jetty and especially Montara was "F" Huge and he wanted to get out before it get "Huge Huge" tomorrow. I still was not into going so I told him to have fun. Then a series of issues happened at work so instead of heading to the office, I started to address the issues from my home office. By the time the core of the problems were taken care of it was 10:30, so I said "What the heck, let's get out in a lunch break session and get wet for a bit since I have been gone for more than a week!"

As I drove past the Jetty, it was a washing tub scene with no surfer in sight. Montara did not look that bad as I approached, then this huge set started to build up, probably and easily 3 X overhead. So beliveving Jack, I did go to Linda Mar, and sure enough, it was not that big and in fact, it was actually mushy! This place is really protected from SW direction.

After that it turned out I ended up meeting 3 familiar surfers today.

First when got out of the car, I saw David, who is a very seasoned surfer. He said though he was avoiding surfing today because of a lot of rain. I said, I would let him know if I got sick.

Run-Into #2. I don't know if this was a Karma or not, but when I was getting ready, Yusuke was getting out, and I waived at him. I ended up talking to him a good 15 minutes, and all in Japanese. So I was in Japan for all this time, and got back and now I am talking all about surfing. Turns out he also lived in Osaka area for a bit, but we both agreed that surf is better and also easy to get to here than most places in Japan.

It was kind of funny to get in the water and paddling out even just after a week of absence, but I was determined to go and at least keep my paddling muscles to get back in shape. I caught many waves in the inside reforms today, felt like starting all over again.

Run Into #3: Then Jeremy spotted me. He gets 3 days off a week due to his work schedule that is nice!

In terms of the surf stoke level, I would say it was about 6. Nice and warm sunny day made it up significantly to the lack of good waves.

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