Saturday, December 18, 2004

Session 4.244: All temperature Cheer

Jetty again this morning in the anticipation that other spots were going to be brutal, for example the Ocean Beach. I did not do very well today again, but looking at other better surfers they were catching waves, so it is just me. Plus it was super crowded this morning probably because of the holiday time with a lot of people has started to take off from work.

What have I learned today?

At least I know there is still a lot to go in the way of catching and riding more waves. What could be improved in this situation is to try to read the wave better. Today was a perfect example when I am not just reading the wave and not positioning right. Party because I did not want to go into the main line up where there were about dozen surfers competing for the same wave. When some of them are good, there is no fat chance that I could get the wave!

Consequence of not selecting the right wave and not taking off at the right spot and time, especially at the Jetty, is that you'd be treated with a nice elevator ride up and then down then a spin cycle. It isn't much fun as you've read my log from yesterday. The only saving grace is that I had a puny board so I did not have to ditch the board. That would be embarrassing or even cause some reprimanding words from other surfers. At the Jetty, the waves were much smaller than yesterday at the Linda Mar but due to the location sometimes the wave can wedge up super fast, throw a winding tube and take you with. So if you are up, you look great, if you are down, you feel much penalized inside the water.

I caught a few closer to the rocks today since two of my other local buddies were there to look after me.

So I cheerfully continue to surf in spin cycles at all temperatures of the water!

6 more sessions to go, then I quit surfing altogether (just kidding).

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