It is a real dawn patrol, if you start to include running an errand on the way to the surf. This morning was kind of packed tight because there was a meeting at 9:30 and then with a possibility of all my friends showing up at the dawn patrol, I had to make sure that I will be there. So I started extra early to get the usual coffee and a pastry, then stop by at the bank to get some cash so I have money for lunch!
When I arrived there, Steve was already suited up and ready to get in. Shortly after that Jeremy pulls in and then Amanda too. We did not even have a weekend session like this many people showing up at the same time. But, that would not end there. After I played in the water, I gradually drifted over to the South end where most people were waiting. Then I spotted Greg. So I introduced Amanda to Greg. When I got out of the water, I saw Laura's car and that made me happy. Sorry, Laura, I had to get out of the water and get to the 930! When I arrived at work, thought I was told that one of the meeting members was late. I said, "Oh man! I could have had a longer session."
In terms of surfing, I must say that it was more in "poor" end of the situation, but this is where I don't have a stigma of riding the white water reforms. I just set myself in front of the close out and paddle the hell when the white water approaches. Usually this will result in reforming wave face that is really a lot of fun to ride, and when the swell size is a bit big like this morning, there is a plenty of distance to surf on. But there is a couple of other tricks one need to learn.
The first trick, of course, is to use turtling, or if you are on a shorter board, use both turtling and duck diving combo to get your way out. Of course, if you see a hot short board surfer, you would be amazed to see them paddling out totally relaxed looking.
The second one of those is to learn to find a channel. On conditions like today where the swell height is big enough but the period is short, and then we get a lot of messy inside white water and often that just prevent you (OK, me) from getting out easily. On a day like this, I paddle to about half way out. Then I just float on the side current. Eventually, the current starts to pull me out, and that's the channel. When this happens, I start to paddle. One thing though is that when there is a lot of sets coming in, the rip can be rather strong I'd been taken out really far out, and that was a bit worrisome. If you are on a long board, no problem, but on a short board, paddling across and back could be quite a bit of effort especially when there are double overhead stuff coming right at you and you'd not want to get further out nor there is nothing you can do to catch the waves, and that means that, I guess, you should not have been out.
I did have some fun waves today, but I think that my skill level was not completely up to a good show today, so, let's try another time!
Today's session was joined by Amanda, Greg, Jeremey, Laura and Steve. I really do appreciate all your friendship and support. I hope to share many many waves with all of you for years to come! Have a great close of a good surf year, and hope for another fine one!