Monday, December 13, 2004

Session 4.239: High Stoke DP!

Monday Dawn Patrol is always the least crowded, no matter what the condition is, and when the condition is just right for me, that's a perfect stoke day. I wish I did not have to take water samples though, as that will take up another 1 hour in the morning. With the sun not rising so early, it really put a squeeze in my session.

Today was just a perfect kind of day for me to practice more take offs and turns, and many of them worked just smoothly and perfectly without having a fear of hitting someone or be hit. There were so many good lefts, as I paddle hard for them, and then I can just insert the board into a sweet line along the wall, and then there is still time and room to do some good cut back turns. I just keep going on the face, look for the opportunity to where the wave in front of me is about to close. I see one coming and with a bit of bottom turn, then looking up and aiming the board high up, the board starts to climb as press the back of the board. I turn my body around towards where I came from. The board start to pivot around and I am now feeling like I am nearly vertical, my eyes peering into the bottom of the wave, as if I am about to be jumping off from a cliff, but the back of the board is still pressed against the wave, and magically I am still standing on the board, but doing so with board vertical and I am horizontal. A moment of zero speed and zero gravity passes, then "bang!" suddenly I get sucked into the bottom of the wave as if a rocket booster has ignited, now I am going back from where I came from in a complete U-turn, and I am still up on the board and go down the face of the wave again.

Just 11 more sessions and I will meet this year's 250 surf sessions goal!

Now onto carving a letter S on the face with a roundhouse cutback! I will be there albeit slowly!
Stoke 10/10.

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