The WavLOG Session 7161-2
Losing Buddies, Keeping Them and Gaining Some
Manabu Tokunaga (StokeMaster.COM)
You don't feel is until you lose one, but this year was a bit rough for me for having lost my surfing buddies, at least temporarily due to an increased incidents of surf related injuries, and when musculo-skeletal issues occur it can put people down for months at a time.
I am not talking about some people I know and say hi at the beaches, these are the people we surfed a lot together. I have those, and some people are amazed how many people I "know." But if you are hanging around at the beach a lot, this will happen to everyone.
Some people also got a change in the job, requiring them to travel a lot. I'd be really cranky if I don't get to surf, but as for surfing itself is concerned all of us are not making a living with it, so that has to take a back seat.
I've lost some surfers due to more at emotional level such as difference in opinions and such. This is probably the hardest loss, but I need to swallow it and move on.
It is kind of rare for losing a close surf buddies due to them dropping surfing altogether, but it did happen. This is also a very difficult one because we surfed together a lot in the beginning.
God forbid, but I have not lost a buddy yet for taking the last wave.
On a very positive note, I also know many surfers, especially from the StokeMasters who stuck around with us for over 3-4 years. I am really glad to say that this and last year we've started to add some new "regular" faces, and it really is a pleasure to surf with them and also introducing each other on our outing parties. I know it is due again to have some form of paddle out of beach party.
So, I just have to say that surf buddies are part of my life now, and for those stuck around with me and surfed with me, I want to send you big thanks.
Day 160: Day after TG at Local Half Moon Bay Break. The pumping west swells were in. The waves were closed out here but we did it. My surf buddies cousin from Ventura joined us and he used my Walden Magic, he was ripping and walking the deck, catching waves one after another while I was just being buried in closing out waves. I just can't beat a 25-year veteran. I was happy to see there is no sign of oil at this home break.
Gosh water was getting cold, I don't know how long I can last without the gloves. Took out Takayama 7'2 egg.
Day 161: Saturday Morning at a northern tip of Santa Cruz County. Having experienced the close outs I have decided to escape to further south. It worked really great and I was able to rip a bit, but not as well as the best of the people who were there. Both lefts and right and the wave type and size were fun for short boarding. I wish that I could convince more of my buddies to come there, but it never works out due to time and probably a bit of fear factor? I can do it, so you can. Come with me! I took out Stretch F4 6'5.