WavLOG DAY 163
Back To Pacifica + Only in California!
This morning, I was really not planning to go to Pacifica. I thought it could be too messy or too big up north, so I was planning to return to a spot much further south. However, I can never refuse a chance to surf with our StokeMaster's Surfing Mama, Ren, I found myself paddling in front of "Bathroom" again. This has been quite a while, last time was while the oil was still spreading around the ship a few weeks ago. I must say though there was no real sign of the oil.
Speaking of the oil and tar balls and pollution, I remember the time I visited the island of Tshuima which is right across from the Korean peninsula. This was when I was just hitting the teens, I distinctly remember two things at the beach. There were many pieces trash with Korean writing on them, like Coke bottles (I was very fascinated by them) and also quite a few tar balls buried in the sand. After playing in the beach my feet will pick up a ball or two of gooey brown stuff that was very hard to get rid of. Recently in Mexico, I was also a bit disgusted with a lot of plastic trash washed up on the beach. I guess back in these days in Japan and today still in many countries these kind of problems are rampant probably because people don't even think about it.
When I surf at Rincon, my board often get murky yellow from local natural oil seeps so I am sure that the amount of the oil in the water is much less than on a regular day at Rincon.
Compared to those situations, Linda Mar looked so much more cleaner. I did not step on tar balls and I did not pick up any oil on my gear.
Surfing was actually fun. Breaks were just about my height, and asides from occasional closeout sets, there definitely were some fun waves out there. It did not get huge and messy today, and I got a few nice rides as well as many "just" rides. Took out the Takayama 7'2 Egg today, which performed well.
Stopped by at the Linda Mar Safeway to buy some lunch stuff before heading home. There is a Starbucks inside the store, and there were two women surfers in wetsuits having coffee. I thought, I would see something like this only in California.
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